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Wiring in a budget dash cam
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Default Wiring in a budget dash cam - 4th March 2015, 04:40 PM

Writing up my own how to to guide. I will admit to using pictures from another guide found here: The Clubman Register • View topic - Dashcam that proved very useful.

Essentially I'm just updating it a bit.

Shopping List:

G1W Dash Cam inc 32gb Mini SD Card: 45 (Amazon -http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IPDD9SO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailp ages00)

Mini 3 amp fuse: 1.72 (Euro Car Parts)

Mini Add a Circuit: 2 (ebay)

Hardwire kit: 8 (roughly, from ebay: Hard Wire Car Charger Kit for Dash Cam Camera Recorder G1W G1W-C Vehicle DVR | eBay)

Total: 56.72

You'll also need some extra wire, 3 x 1.5mm crimps and a "banjo" ring, which an electrician friend kindly gave me.

You'll also need the following tools:

Torx 20 Screwdriver

10mm socket/spanner

Tiny flathead screwdriver

Crimping tool

Wire stripper

Trim removal tool - not essential but comes in useful

Last edited by at6077; 4th March 2015 at 05:22 PM.
  
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Default 4th March 2015, 05:01 PM

Step 1:

take your hard wire kit and put a crimp on the black wire and another on the red wire. Then add a suitable amount of cable to both. Around 20 cm for each should be more than enough. Whilst your doing use your third crimp to attach some wire to your banjo ring.

Step 2:

Remove the pillar trim on the drivers side. you'll need to pop out the little air bag symbol first and then unscrew it. Then you can prise of the trim with your trim tool.







be extra careful if you have HK system (like me) as there is extra wiring to contend with.

Step 3:

Remove the little piece of trim just inside the drivers door, fittied on the dash. it's going to make your life easier.



The above picture shows the passenger side with the air bag switch. you want to remove that same bit of trim on the drivers side.

Step 4:

Remove cover of fusebox, then prise of trim just above fuse box area and pull back plastic trim that surrounds the fuse box.

I found that I could pull it out a little further by depressing the accelerator and then pushing the trim around it. Release the accelerator and it'll hold the trim in place whilst you fiddle.

Step 5:

Fit your G1W where you roughly want it to go. Then begin running the hard wire kit back from it. Tuck the cable into the head liner. Then run it down the A Pillar. there is a little hole at the base of the a pillar where you can push the whole kit through it.



Step 6:

Everything should drop through into a little cubby hold area, which you shall see thanks to having removed the trim beforehand. Things begin to get fiddly here as you need to pull the cable through a hole. Push it through as much as you can and then you'll want to get down in the foot well and feel up around inside the area with your hand and pull through the cable. it might take some going back and forth as the hard wire kit box only just squeezes through.


Step 7:

once you've managed to squeeze the wires and the box through (mine ended up wedged) you'll want to crimp the add a circuit on to the red wire.



Step 8:

On the fuse box find the 7.5Amp fuse located on slot no.34. Remove the fuse and insert it into the bottom of the two holders of the add a circuit. into the top half put your Mini 3 Amp fuse. Then push the add a fuse prongs into the slot for fuse 34.





Step 9:

Using your 10mm spanner (or socket set) remove the lower nut that holds the fuse box onto the car. Yoiu can just about see it here:



Step 10:

Crimp the "banjo" ring onto your extended piece of black wire. Then place the banjo ring over the bolt. replace the nut you just took off.


Step 11: Turn on the car and see if your G1W Fires up. If successful begin reattaching all removed trim and you are done!

I must stress that these are NOT MY PICTURES but taken from another well thoguht out guide. Original can be found here (with my very gratefull thanks): http://www.clubmanregister.co.uk/vie...hp?f=14&t=2787

Last edited by at6077; 4th March 2015 at 05:26 PM.
  
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Default 17th March 2016, 08:24 PM

Quote:
On the fuse box find the 7.5Amp fuse located on slot no.34. Remove the fuse and insert it into the bottom of the two holders of the add a circuit. into the top half put your Mini 3 Amp fuse. Then push the add a fuse prongs into the slot for fuse 34.
Do you mean fuse 32 ?
  
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Default 28th August 2016, 11:39 AM

Bit of a bump to this thread, in part because it looks as if the last post is still unanswered.

I've signed up here because it looks the best of too many MINI forums on the web!

I'm in the process of replacing my daughter's dead Peugeot 206 with a 12 plate One. I'd hardwired a Tomtom satnav and a Transcend dashcam into the Pug, taking a switched feed from the under-dash fusebox. There was plenty of room behind the side of the dash to store the surplus cables and a twin socket, to avoid the need to cut any wires and plugs off the power cables and I want to do the same in the MINI. I'll only have a couple of hours to do this later this week after I pick the car up and won't have much time to faff about.

The posts above seem to show the way, but I'm wondering how much room there is inside the right side of the dash, basically under the steering wheel and to the right towards the A pillar.

I've managed to tuck all the cable for the dashcam inside the windscreen top rail and down the A pillar trim on both my own Skoda and the 206 without removing any trim, and guess the same will work with the MINI. (The satnav cable only needs to pop up at the top right edge of the dash, the unit will be mounted at the bottom right of the windscreen, so really no cable to hide.)

Any comments and/or tips will be welcome. Also in the photos above the piggyback fuse seems to have thin blades, a couple of mm less than standard - is that the case for MINI fuseboxes? Thanks in advance.
  
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Default 20th October 2017, 02:58 PM

Need some advice folks please! Have installed a hardwire kit for my dashcam and although it all works fine and the wiring is nearly hidden, no matter what fuse I choose I'm left with a permenantly 'on' connection rather than one that only comes on with the ignition.
I've tried the electric windows, the mirrors and the heated creek....all with the same result.
Any hell much appreciated!
Cheers
Matt
  
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Default 20th October 2017, 03:20 PM

Have you tried fuse 34? With this fuse linked to the heated seats and mirrors, it should only activate with the ignition.


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Default 21st October 2017, 07:47 PM

ALso bear in mind that some circuits seem to go off a few minutes after the ignition is turned off.


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